Dealing with Storm Damage to Garden Trees Safely

British weather is famously changeable, and when a named storm or a sudden squall tears through your garden or woodland, the aftermath can feel overwhelming. Trees are remarkably resilient, but even the sturdiest oak or ash can suffer. The most important thing is to put safety first — for yourself, your family, and anyone else who might wander into the damaged area. This guide will help you assess storm damage, decide what you can safely handle, and recognise when it is time to call in a qualified arborist.

First Steps After the Storm: Safety and Survey

Before you do anything, wait until the wind has fully dropped. Do not go outside whilst branches are still swaying or debris is flying. Once it is calm, put on sturdy boots, gloves, and eye protection. Walk your boundaries from a distance, using binoculars if you have them. Look up and around. Never stand under a tree with hanging branches or visible cracks. Check for downed power lines — if you see any, stay well clear and contact your network operator immediately. Also watch for soil heave: if the ground around the base of a tree is cracked or raised, the root plate may be lifting, and the tree could fall without warning. Keep children and pets indoors until you have completed your survey.

Recognising Dangerous Damage

Storm damage isn't always obvious. Some of the most hazardous defects are subtle. Look for:

• Hanging branches — often called "widow makers" — that are broken but still caught in the canopy.
• Cracks in the trunk, in branch unions, or along the length of a limb.
• Split crotches where two limbs meet, especially if you can see fresh wood or bark separation.
• Torn bark and exposed inner wood, which can indicate structural failure.
• Root plate heave — a mound of soil or a gap where the roots meet the ground.
• A new lean that wasn't there before the storm.
• Deadwood or fungal brackets (such as those of Ganoderma) that may have weakened the tree.

If you spot any of these, treat the tree as dangerous and keep everyone away. Do not attempt to pull down hanging branches or climb the tree to investigate.

What You Can Safely Tackle Yourself

It is tempting to grab a saw and start clearing, but restraint is wise. You can safely deal with small branches that are already on the ground, provided they are not under tension. Use loppers or a pruning saw — never a chainsaw unless you are trained and wearing full protective equipment. Cut branches into manageable lengths, keeping your feet clear and your blade away from your body. Do not cut any branch that is still attached to a standing tree, even if it looks small and low. Do not use a ladder near a damaged tree. Do not work alone. If a branch is trapped under another, leave it — releasing tension can cause sudden movement. For final pruning cuts on undamaged small trees, remember the three-cut method to avoid tearing bark. But honestly, if you are in any doubt, stop. The cost of an arborist is far less than a hospital visit.

When to Call a Qualified Arborist

Some jobs are simply not DIY. Call a qualified arborist if:

• Any work needs to be done at height.
• A chainsaw is required above ground level.
• A large limb or whole tree is hanging, cracked, or uprooted.
• The tree is within falling distance of a building, road, or power line.
• You see root plate movement or severe trunk cracks.

A good arborist will have public liability insurance and recognised qualifications. Ask to see proof before any work begins, and get a written quotation. Be wary of anyone who knocks on your door offering to "sort out that dangerous tree" — rogue traders often appear after storms. For woodland gardening, the same rules apply, but with added risks from multiple trees, uneven ground, and hidden debris. A professional can also advise on felling direction and safe retreat paths.

Aftercare and Futureproofing Your Trees

Once the immediate danger is cleared, think about the long term. Corrective pruning by a qualified arborist can remove weak forks and deadwood, reducing future storm damage. Mulch around the base of young trees to encourage deep roots, and water during dry spells. In woodlands, thin overcrowded stands so remaining trees grow stronger and more wind-firm. After a storm, inspect trees for signs of disease or decay that may have been exacerbated by wounds. Do not paint pruning cuts — modern advice is to let them seal naturally. Finally, consider species selection: native oaks, hornbeams, and field maples tend to be more wind-resistant than fast-growing willows or poplars. By acting safely now, you protect both your garden and your woodland for years to come.